Chicken Biryani

First, rinse the long-grain basmati rice under cold running water until the water runs clear (no cloudy starchy residue), then cover with cold water and set aside to soak for 30 minutes at room temperature. Next, stir the saffron strands into the 60ml of warm whole milk and set aside to infuse for 10 minutes. In a large glass bowl, combine the cut chicken thighs, full-fat yogurt, ginger-garlic paste, turmeric powder, red chili powder, 1 tablespoon of salt, 1 teaspoon of garam masala, and half of the chopped mint and coriander. Toss until every chicken piece is evenly coated, then leave to marinate at room temperature for 30 minutes.

Place a heavy-bottomed 5-liter Dutch oven over medium heat (175°C/350°F), then add 3 tablespoons of ghee. Once the ghee is shimmering and hot, add the thinly sliced onions, and fry for 12-15 minutes, stirring every 2-3 minutes, until the onions are deep golden brown and crispy. Use a slotted spoon to transfer half of the fried onions to a paper-towel lined plate to drain and crisp up further, leaving the remaining half of the onions in the Dutch oven.

Keep the Dutch oven over medium heat, and add the whole spices (bay leaves, crushed green cardamom, cinnamon stick, cloves, cumin seeds) to the remaining fried onions and ghee. Sauté for 30 seconds until the spices release a warm, nutty aroma, then add the finely chopped tomatoes. Cook the tomatoes for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until they break down completely into a thick, smooth paste. Add all the marinated chicken and its yogurt marinade to the pot, stir to combine fully, then bring to a gentle simmer. Reduce heat to medium-low (150°C/300°F), cover the pot, and cook for 15 minutes, stirring once halfway through, until the chicken is 70% cooked (firm but not yet tender all the way through) and the masala is thick with no watery pooling. Stir in the remaining 1 teaspoon of garam masala and all the biryani masala powder, then turn off the heat temporarily.

While the chicken simmers, bring 1.5 liters of water to a rolling boil over high heat in a separate 3-liter pot, then add the remaining 1 tablespoon of salt and 1 remaining tablespoon of ghee. Drain the pre-soaked basmati rice completely, add it to the boiling water, and parboil for 5-6 minutes until the rice is 70% cooked: grains will be slightly translucent on the outside, with a firm, white starchy core when bitten into. Drain the parboiled rice immediately in a colander, taking care not to overcook it to a mushy texture.

Assemble the biryani layers directly in the Dutch oven over the chicken masala: first, spread half of the drained parboiled rice in a smooth, even layer over the chicken, taking care not to press the rice down. Sprinkle half of the reserved crispy fried onions and a quarter of the remaining chopped mint and coriander over this first rice layer. Add the rest of the parboiled rice as a second even top layer, drizzle the saffron-infused milk evenly across the entire rice surface, then scatter the remaining fried onions, mint, and coriander over the very top. Do not stir the layers together at this stage.

Seal the Dutch oven lid tightly to trap all steam inside: wrap the edge of the lid with a clean cotton kitchen towel before placing it on the pot, to block any gaps where steam could escape. Place the sealed pot over the lowest stovetop heat setting (120°C/250°F) and cook, covered, for 25 minutes. Do not lift the lid at any point during this cooking time, as escaping steam will prevent the rice from cooking evenly. After 25 minutes, turn off the heat, and let the biryani rest, still fully sealed, for 10 minutes.

After the 10-minute resting period, carefully remove the lid (watch for escaping hot steam). Gently fluff the biryani with a long-handled fork, lightly combining the layers just enough to distribute the golden saffron-tinted rice, crispy onions, and tender chicken, taking great care not to mash the soft, cooked rice grains. Serve immediately while hot.