Squirrel Mull
intro
A hearty, rustic Appalachian stew of slow-simmered wild squirrel, tender root vegetables, and savory broth, a beloved cool-weather family comfort food.
Ingredients
Steps
Prep and season squirrel
Pat the 900g quartered squirrel completely dry with paper towels, then season evenly with 1 teaspoon of kosher salt and ¼ teaspoon of ground black pepper. Dredge each piece lightly in 2 tablespoons of the all-purpose flour, shaking off excess to leave a thin, even coating on all sides.
Sear the squirrel pieces
Melt 2 tablespoons of unsalted butter in a heavy-bottomed 5L Dutch oven over medium heat (175°C/350°F). Add the floured squirrel pieces in a single layer, working in batches if needed to avoid crowding the pan. Sear for 3-4 minutes per side until deep golden brown on all surfaces, then transfer seared pieces to a clean plate and set aside.
Sauté aromatic base
In the same Dutch oven with the remaining rendered fat, add diced onion, sliced carrots, and sliced celery. Cook over medium heat for 6 minutes, stirring occasionally, until vegetables soften and onion turns translucent. Add minced garlic and cook for 30 seconds more until fragrant, then stir in the remaining 1 tablespoon of all-purpose flour and cook for 1 minute to eliminate raw flour flavor.
Slow simmer the stew
Gradually pour in the 1200ml chicken broth, stirring constantly to prevent flour lumps from forming. Add the seared squirrel pieces back to the pot, along with dried thyme and the whole bay leaf. Bring the liquid to a gentle rolling boil, then reduce heat to low (93°C/200°F), cover the pot, and simmer for 1 hour 15 minutes until squirrel meat is nearly tender enough to pull from the bone.
Add remaining vegetables
Remove the lid, stir in the 2cm cubed russet potatoes, remaining 0.5 teaspoon kosher salt, and remaining ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper. Return the lid to the pot, maintain low heat, and simmer for an additional 25 minutes until potatoes are fork-tender and squirrel meat pulls easily from the bone. Stir in the 150g frozen corn kernels and 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar, then simmer uncovered for 5 more minutes to heat corn through.
Finish and debone meat
Turn off the heat, remove and discard the bay leaf. Use tongs to pull out all squirrel pieces, shred the meat off the bones (carefully discarding all small bones and connective tissue), then return the shredded meat to the stew. Taste and adjust salt or pepper if needed before serving hot in bowls.
Tips
2.If dressed squirrel is unavailable, substitute 900g of bone-in rabbit thighs for a nearly identical texture and mild, gamey flavor.
3.Take extra care when deboning the cooked squirrel, as the small animal has tiny, easily missed bone fragments that can pose a choking risk.
OMG, this tastes exactly like the mull my papaw used to make after squirrel season openers when I was a kid! I was worried I’d never get the seasoning right, but the ratio of salt, pepper, and that touch of allspice is perfect. My whole family cleaned their bowls at Sunday dinner, even my picky teen who turns his nose up at most wild game. 10/10, will be making this every fall!
Took my 12 year old out for his first successful squirrel hunt last weekend, and we used this recipe to cook up our haul. Total game changer! The only swap I made was adding a handful of diced potatoes I had left over from the garden, and it turned out so hearty. We brought a big pot to our local hunting camp potluck and every last drop was gone in 20 minutes. Will absolutely be our go-to mull recipe from now on.
Full transparency: I’d never cooked squirrel before in my life, I found this recipe when my partner brought home a few squirrels from a hunting trip with his buddies. I was so intimidated at first since it’s marked medium difficulty, but the step-by-step instructions made it totally doable! The end result was SO good, rich and savory, way better than I expected. Who knew city me would be making Appalachian mull on a random Tuesday?
I’ve been making squirrel mull for nigh on 60 years, and I have to say, this recipe is as close to the original mountain version as I’ve seen online. A lot of folks these days dump in too much tomato or weird seasonings, but you kept it simple, just how it ought to be. Shared this link to my church group’s recipe page so all the ladies can try it!
Made this for our annual fall block party potluck, and people were lined up for seconds! I was a little worried folks would be weirded out by squirrel, but once they tasted it, they didn’t even care what meat it was. So many people asked for the recipe I lost count. Only note: make a double batch if you’re bringing it to a group, a single pot disappears fast!
Wait, quick question for anyone who’s made this: do you have to debone the squirrel before adding it to the mull, or can you leave the pieces whole and fish the bones out as you eat? I don’t mind picking meat off the bone but I don’t want to make extra work for myself if I don’t have to!
This was solid! I used a little extra cayenne because we like our food with a kick down here in TX, and it paired perfectly. Cooked it over an open fire while we were out at the deer lease last weekend, and the whole crew raved. My only complaint is the cook time felt a little long when we were all starving after being out in the woods since dawn, but good food takes time I guess!
Tried this in my dorm kitchen with a crockpot (used pre-butchered squirrel I ordered from a local wild game meat market, no way I’m cleaning a squirrel in the dorm bathroom lol) and it turned out way better than the ramen I’ve been living on. Let it cook on low for 6 hours instead of simmering on the stove, and it was perfect. Saved me from eating takeout all week!
I’ve tried three different squirrel mull recipes in the last year, and this one is hands down the best. The balance of veggies, meat, and broth is spot on, no weird overpowering seasonings that cover up the actual flavor of the squirrel. Made it for my wife’s birthday dinner (she’s a huge fan of old Appalachian recipes) and she said it tasted just like her great grandma’s. Win in my book!
Wait a second, y’all don’t put dumplings in your squirrel mull? Every recipe I’ve ever used has fluffy drop dumplings cooked right in the broth at the end! I made this recipe yesterday and added my usual dumplings, and it was wonderful, but I was surprised there was no mention of them here. Is that a regional difference?
Made this for my backpacking trip last weekend, pre-made it at home and froze it in a vacuum sealed bag to reheat on my camp stove. It was the perfect warm, filling meal after 8 miles of hiking in 40 degree rain. 10/10, best trail meal I’ve had all season. Way better than the freeze dried backpacking meals I usually buy!
My kids loved it! I was so worried they’d turn their noses up at eating squirrel, but I told them it was "special mountain chicken" at first and they devoured two bowls each before I told them what it was. Now they’re asking when we can go hunt squirrels with their uncle so we can make it again. Parent win for sure!
This was my first time trying any kind of wild game, and I have to say, squirrel tastes way better than I thought it would! It’s kind of like a darker, nuttier tasting chicken? I found cleaned squirrel at a specialty butcher shop in Brooklyn, so I didn’t have to deal with dressing it myself. The only issue I had was that the meat was a little tougher than I expected, did I not simmer it long enough?
Made this for our annual guys’ game night instead of the usual pizza and wings, and everyone lost their minds. We had a whole spread of craft beer to go with it, and it was the perfect cozy fall food. We ended up eating the whole pot while we watched football, no leftovers at all. Will be adding this to the regular game night rotation!
This is meal prep gold! I made a big batch on Sunday, portioned it out into containers, and had lunch for the whole week. It reheats perfectly in the microwave, doesn’t get soggy or weird like a lot of soups do, and it’s so high in protein I stayed full all afternoon at work. 10/10, will be a regular in my meal prep rotation this fall and winter.
Grew up eating squirrel mull at every family hunt camp, and this recipe hits every single nostalgic note. I added a splash of apple cider vinegar like my dad always did to cut the richness a little, and it was perfect. If you’re on the fence about trying this, stop overthinking it—this is real, honest, stick to your ribs mountain food, and you won’t regret it.
Quick question: is there a good substitute for squirrel if I can’t find any locally? I really want to try this flavor profile but I don’t hunt and none of the butchers near me carry wild game. Would rabbit work? Or dark meat chicken?
I made this while camping last weekend with my partner, and it was so cozy sitting around the campfire eating warm mull after a day of hiking and fishing. The only change I made was adding a can of drained butter beans because I love beans in my soup, and it was chef’s kiss. Can’t wait to make it again when squirrel season is in full swing!
Used squirrel we hunted on our family farm in southern Illinois for this, and it took me right back to when I was a kid helping my grandpa clean squirrels on the back porch after a morning hunt. The recipe is simple, no fancy ingredients, just good honest food. My grandpa would have been proud of how this turned out. 5 stars, no notes.
My squirrel dog earned his keep last weekend treeing 6 fat greys, so we cooked up half the haul with this recipe after the hunt. Let me tell you, nothing hits harder after a long morning in the woods with a good dog than a hot bowl of mull. Added a little hot sauce on top, and it was perfect. Already planning a big cookout with the whole hunting crew next weekend to make a giant batch.